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Why Furnaces Leak Water in Spring Hill, FL

If you’ve noticed water leaking from your furnace, it could be due to a few different causes. No matter what the reason is, having water leaking from your furnace can lead to more costly repairs in the future if not dealt with promptly. Let’s take a look at some of the most common reasons why furnaces leak water in Spring Hill, FL.

Clogged or Frozen Condensate Line

The condensate line is responsible for draining away any moisture that accumulates in the system during operation. If the condensate line becomes clogged, the water will back up into the system and eventually start to leak out from the bottom of the unit. To fix this issue, you will need to call a professional who will unclog or thaw out the line and make sure it is clear of any debris or blockages.

Drain Pan Is Overflowing

Another reason why your furnace may be leaking water could be because the drain pan is overflowing. The drain pan collects any excess moisture produced by your furnace during operation, and if there is too much water in the pan, it may overflow and start to leak out from underneath your unit.

Humidifier Malfunctioning

If you have an attached humidifier to your furnace, it could be causing your unit to leak water if it isn’t working properly. Humidifiers add moisture into the air, which can increase humidity levels inside your home and help prevent dry air-related issues such as allergies or asthma symptoms.

If your humidifier isn’t functioning correctly, then it can cause an excess amount of moisture to accumulate in your system, which could overflow and lead to a leaky furnace. It is important to call one of our heating repair technicians to deal with the issue.

We offer professional HVAC service. If you are looking for a new furnace, contact Senica Air Conditioning, Inc.

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This post appeared first on Senicaair.com

Should Air Vents be High or Low?

The vast majority of functional features in a home are placed for a reason, the air vents included. But many people don’t give second thought to whether the air vents are better suited high, such as in the ceiling, or low, such as in the floor.

We’ll discuss the basics, pros and cons of floor and ceiling installation, and how it all depends on your personal preferences.

Air Supply Register and Return Grill Basics

Each room should have a supply and return vent

Let’s begin with how each vent works independently. The supply air vent brings conditioned air from the heating and cooling system into the room through a network of ducts. The return pulls or sucks used or flat air back into the system to be warmed or cooled again.

Some homes only have a supply vent in a room and not both. We’ll go over why this is an issue later on.

How do supply and return vents work?

Essentially, they create air circulation within the room. Everything begins with the ambient air flowing into the HVAC system from the return vent. The air is then warmed or cooled and pushed back into the home through the supply vents. Because of the constant pull push flow, the air eventually flows toward a return vent and begins the cycle again.

Does my vent use an air supply register or a cover?

An air supply register is usually the cover found over a supply vent opening. Registers have either a damper or flaps that move and allow full or partial airflow into the room.

An air vent grill is usually the immoveable grate covering a return vent. Because the grate or slats don’t move, you’ll need to periodically clean the grill and remove dust and debris buildup.

Floor Vent Pros

  • More efficient heating: Because of warm air’s natural ability to rise, you’ll enjoy more efficient and effective heating during the colder months with floor air vents.
  • Better accessibility: If there’s an issue with a floor vent, you don’t need a step stool or ladder to reach it. Plus, many people simply sweep or vacuum right over them when cleaning.

Floor VentFloor Vent Cons

  • Collecting dust and debris: As dust and other small debris settles on the floor, it’ll also collect on the floor vents. When the HVAC system blows air, the dust simply flies into the air again before resettling. This can trigger or increase respiratory irritation in people and pets.
  • Particular furniture arrangement: Depending on the size of the room, you might have to make several compromises for arranging furniture with floor vents.

Ceiling Vent Pros

  • More efficient cooling: Homes in the southern half of the United States use air conditioning up to half of the year. Ceiling vents are simply the opening for cool conditioned air which naturally sinks towards the ground.
  • Extra floor and wall space: You won’t have to worry about impeding the air flow in or out of a ceiling vent when arranging furniture or hanging photos and other wall décor.

Ceiling Air VentCeiling Vent Cons

  • Potentially higher energy costs: The amount of heat transfer loss through ductwork in the ceiling and/or attic can increase your energy costs as the HVAC system has to produce more conditioned air to compensate.
  • Inaccessible: If a ceiling vent needs to be inspected or repaired, you may have to move furniture out of the way for an HVAC technician to stand on a ladder.

Can I Close Vents in Unused Rooms?

Closing the supply vents affects how efficiently your HVAC system operates. Every system is designed to deliver a certain amount of airflow during a heating or cooling cycle based on your home’s square footage. Because the HVAC has no way of knowing if vents are closed, it continues to deliver the conditioned air into the ducts. With a vent closed, air pressure builds and presses on the ductwork, possibly leaking at connection points.

The HVAC also works extra to try and pull non-existent air back in through the returns. With the push pull circulation interrupted, you lose energy efficiency while creating uneven temperature zones in the home.

It all depends on your personal needs

Your heating and cooling preferences may vary, but also consider the climate of where you live. You may find yourself using more air conditioning if it’s warmer year-round. Keep these tips in mind for air vents that fit your personal needs.

  • Keep air ducts close to the ceiling: When air ducts are installed near or inside the ceiling, it’s usually the most energy-efficient placement.
  • Consider your lifestyle for vent placement: You want the vents in the most usable locations for maximum comfort, but not in places that are inaccessible for cleaning and maintenance.
  • Align ductwork with your home’s layout: Homes with open layouts might not need as many vents as traditional walled homes. Also, not all HVAC systems blow air into every room.

Wherever you decide to have the air vents placed in your home, make sure they align with your heating and cooling preferences. Need an expert to help with your air vent? Call Service Champions today.

My Water Heater is Getting too Hot

Hot water is a modern expectation in a home, but not excessively hot. Here we’ll go over reasons why your water heater is suddenly sending super-hot water from the tap and how to change the thermostat to prevent it from happening again.

Reasons your water heater is getting too hot

Broken Thermostat

Most thermostats work for years without issue, while others decide one day they’re done working as they should. Without the thermostat telling the burners or heating element when to turn off, the water continues to heat up and reaches scorching levels.

Water Heater ThermostatCheck the current thermostat temperature — if it’s set at 140 degrees Fahrenheit, it’s still on the factory setting. Lower it by 15 to 20 degrees then wait two to three hours to test the tap water temperature with a thermometer. If the water temperature is higher than the thermostat, you likely need to call a plumber for a replacement.

Unbalanced or Misaligned Thermostat

Sometimes the thermostat becomes unbalanced or misaligned over time. It needs to be flush and square against the water heater to properly communicate and read the temperature. Use a screwdriver to realign and tighten the screws that hold the thermostat in place.

Faulty Heater Element

If your water heater is electric, it likely has one or two heater elements to warm the water. However, because of their design, the element begins to ground, or fail, as it ages and can go wonky. This includes never turning off which excessively overheats the water until the element burns out and fails.

Mineral Buildup

Mineral buildup inside a hot water heater is common for 85% of the United States — the amount of the country that has hard water. As hard water heats, it begins to evaporate a tiny amount but leaves behind deposits of calcium, magnesium, and other minerals. These harden against the inside and affect whether the thermostat is able to accurately gauge the water temperature.

Water Heater Part With Mineral Build Up

 Issues with the Pressure Relief Valve

This valve goes into action if the water temperature and/or pressure inside the tank reaches an unsafe level. Pressure and steam are byproducts of water heating; the valve opens to allow tiny amounts of one or both from the tank as regulation. If the valve has an issue, the water temperature and pressure may continue to rise until the tank leaks or bursts.

Pressure Meme

You can test the valve by moving the flap up and down a few times. If it’s working, you’ll hear a gurgling noise and possibly see a slight stream of water flow out. If not, or you hear a rattle, screech, or different noise(s), contact a plumber immediately.

How to Change the Water Heater Thermostat

The water temperature for your water heater should stay between 120 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit for a couple of reasons. First, water under 120 degrees creates an environment for bacteria like Legionella and others that cause illness to form. Then, water above 140 degrees can cause scalds and burns in a matter of seconds.

Gas Water Heater

Older gas-powered water heaters have the thermostat toward the bottom of the tank as a dial. You’ll see temperature markings on it and can make adjustments with the dial.

Newer models usually house the thermostat behind an access panel on the tank. You’ll need a screwdriver to remove the panel and adjust the thermostat.

  1. Turn off the water heater’s power source; we recommend at the circuit breaker.
  2. Locate the thermostat access panel and remove the screws with the screwdriver.
  3. Remove the insulation to view the thermostat.
  4. Some water heaters have two thermostats; if it has two, adjust the top thermostat to a higher temperature than the bottom one.
  5. Tuck the insulation back over the thermostat and reattach the access panel.
  6. Restore the power to the water heater.
  7. Relight the pilot light, if necessary.
  8. Wait two to three hours then test the water temperature from a tap.
  9. Adjust the temperature as necessary.

Tankless Water Heater

These water heaters only warm the water on demand, such as when you start the dishwasher. Most have a control panel that looks like the thermostat for an HVAC system. Find the temperature control button(s) and make the adjustments there.

Tankless Water HeaterWhen Should I replace my water heater?

With routine water heater maintenance and timely repairs, a tank style water heater should last at least eight to 10 years. Tankless systems have been known to work up to 20 years. A trained plumber should be able to provide insight into how much longer your unit will last.

Suddenly too hot water is a surprise for many people, but adjusting the thermostat on the water heater is relatively easy. Need help with you water heater? Call Service Champions today!

Is Your Heat Pump Crying Out for Help in Spring, TX?

It’s vital during the winter to monitor your heat pump for any strange sounds. These systems typically make louder swooshing noises during the cold season due to the frequently shifting flow of refrigeration. However, several other heat pump noises, like shrieking or buzzing, could mean trouble in Spring, TX.

Thumping

Metal-on-metal thumping usually points to an issue with the system’s fan blades. They may be getting caught on old debris or a chunk of ice. It’s best to immediately turn off the heat pump to prevent further damage.

When the blades are off-kilter, they can bump into other parts, such as nearby wiring. You may even have to entirely replace the fan blades if they bend out of shape or become damaged. Scheduling routine HVAC maintenance twice a year will ensure the system is free of pesky dirt and debris.

Rattling

Many modern heat pumps will produce a rattling sound while they’re running. This noise becomes an issue if it suddenly increases in intensity or starts occurring at random. Some parts of the system may have rattled loose, like the air handler, metal cover, or ductwork.

Grinding

Your heat pump is full of a variety of moving parts, such as motor bearings. When the lubrication on these parts runs dry, they can begin making a grinding or shrieking noise.

Gurgling

Your system’s refrigerant is key to transferring heat in and out of your home. Over time, the system may develop leaks that deplete refrigerant levels. Regular HVAC care minimizes the chances of a refrigerant leak and keeps your system efficient and safe.

Your heat pump needs professional service if it’s making loud grinding, gurgling, rattling, or thumping noises. It’s also important to watch for any other new noises the system doesn’t usually produce. Call Davis Air Conditioning & Heating, Inc. for dependable heating service in Spring, TX today.

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Water Treatment, Limescale, and Your Facility

Water treatment in commercial facilities is crucial for maintaining a business’s overall health and efficiency. However, one of the main downsides to water treatment is the potential for limescale (calcium carbonate) buildup and the increased costs that it can drive. Industrial descaling solutions are essential in preventing limescale buildup and the associated issues through quick and effective scale removal using acidic cleaning chemicals.

Limescale is a hard, chalky deposit that can form inside pipes and other water-using equipment. It can form on vertical surfaces, pipes, water passages, and more. It is caused by a buildup of calcium and magnesium compounds in the water, which can occur naturally or as a result of water treatment processes. Limescale buildup, especially on heat transfer surfaces, can cause several problems, including reduced water flow, increased energy costs, and damage to equipment. An industrial scale remover, which includes hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, citric acid, or sulfamic acid, can help remove scale quickly. These formulations typically are liquid in form, low foaming, and include superior corrosion inhibitors to protect metal surfaces, ferrous metals, and others from damage. Specific formulas also exist for different applications or metals, like copper, stainless steel, and more.

One of the most significant challenges of water treatment programs is keeping scale and minerals suspended, and when they adhere to surfaces (and they will) big problems start. One of the biggest downsides to limescale buildup is the increased costs that it can drive. Limescale can cause a decrease in the operating efficiency of water-using equipment, leading to higher energy costs. Commercial and industrial systems using water as a heat exchange medium are particularly susceptible to scale. These include industrial equipment like chiller tubes, boiler tubes, heat exchangers, and cooling towers. Additionally, the buildup can cause damage to equipment, which can be costly to repair or replace. Commercial facilities may need to invest in industrial descaling solutions such as acidic cleaners or high-pressure descaling to combat the limescale problem, which can also add to their costs.

Despite the downsides, water treatment has many benefits in commercial facilities. For example, it can help to ensure that the water is safe to drink and use, it can help to prevent the growth of bacteria and other harmful organisms, and it can help to improve the overall quality of the water. Additionally, water treatment can help to reduce the number of pollutants in the water and can help to conserve resources by reducing the amount of water that is used.

In conclusion, water treatment in commercial facilities is an essential aspect of maintaining a business’s overall health and efficiency. While there are many benefits to water treatment, there are also some downsides that should be considered, such as the potential for limescale buildup and the increased costs that it can drive. To ensure that the water treatment process is effective and efficient, it is crucial to invest in industrial descaling solutions such as chemical descaling or high-pressure descaling and to regularly maintain and check equipment to prevent limescale buildup.

This post appeared first on Goodway.com

Restaurant Refrigeration Installation: Get It Right the First Time

What’s the worst thing you can imagine happening right before the grand opening of a new restaurant or food service business? Having problems with your new refrigeration equipment is a big one. After all, if your refrigeration installation goes badly, ALL your cold food storage equipment could be affected and fail to hold the correct … Continued

The post Restaurant Refrigeration Installation: Get It Right the First Time appeared first on Arista.

Ice Machine Cleaning Could Save Your Restaurant

Food safety must be a primary concern for every NYC restaurant owner. If it wasn’t, you wouldn’t stay in business very long. The consequences of serving potentially dangerous food are serious, not only to your patrons’ health, but also for your business: Poor health inspection grades Negative reviews on social media and in the press … Continued

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What is an air handler? HVAC terms defined

At HVAC.com, our writers create solutions that put you in control of your HVAC system. Our product reviews and recommendations are researched and backed by real buyers and industry experts, not dictated by our partners.

blower motor

An air handler is a component of your central heating and cooling system that circulates air through your ductwork. Sometimes people refer to the air handler as the “blower,” but the blower motor is a part of the air handler.

This article will answer the question, “What is an air handler?”. We’ll explain what it does and how to determine if yours needs repair or replacement.

If you’re shopping for a new air handler, check out our reviews of the best air handlers

Let our experts help you choose the best air handler for your home.

What does an air handler do?

An air handler is a piece of your central HVAC system. It attaches to your air conditioner, furnace (or heat pump), and plenums, leading to your ductwork.

Your air handler takes the warmed or cooled air created by your HVAC equipment and blows it into the supply plenum, which connects to your air ducts. Your ductwork distributes the treated air throughout your home.

Your air handler also connects to your return plenum, which takes air from inside your home and brings it into your HVAC system. Depending on the season, the air handler pushes that air to either your air conditioner or furnace, where it’s heated or cooled.

On the outside, an air handler is a large metal box that looks similar to your furnace. It’s typically installed alongside your furnace in your garage, attic, utility closet, or basement.

Parts of an air handler

Your air handler moves treated air through your home using the following components.

Blower motor

The blower motor powers a fan that pushes air into your ducts. It also helps circulate air from your home back into your AC or furnace.

Blower motors come in single-speed, dual-speed, and variable-speed varieties.

Single-speed blower motors can function at only one setting. These are typically less expensive upfront, though they’ll cost you more on utility bills in the long run.

Dual- and variable-speed blower motors can adjust automatically to different speeds. They’ll keep your home more consistently comfortable. They’re a bigger investment, but they’ll save you on utilities over time.

Evaporator coil

Your compressor is part of your outdoor AC unit (the condenser). The compressor pumps refrigerant into the air handler’s evaporator coil.

When the blower motor’s fan moves air over the evaporator coil, it cools the air. As the refrigerant warms in the coil, it gets pushed back to the compressor to cool down again.

Air filter

Your air handler’s air filter is on the return side of the unit. It filters air entering your HVAC system from your home. 

Air filters remove dust, mold, and bacteria from the air. This improves your household air quality and also protects your HVAC system.

Electrical components

Your air handler contains electrical components, such as a contactor and relay board, that help it do its job.

One notable electrical part is its emergency heat strip. The heat strip turns on when cold outdoor conditions make it difficult for your HVAC system to keep up with your heating needs. 

Common air handler problems

The average cost for air handler repair is $350. It may help to diagnose the problem yourself and try a few air handler troubleshooting tips before calling a professional to fix your system. 

Air handler is not turning on

Your air handler may be clogged due to a dirty air filter. Change your filter, dust the unit, and try again. 

If this doesn’t help, reset your air handler at your fuse box.

Blower motor is not working

The blower motor is a hard-working part of your air handler, so it’s often the cause of issues with the system.

Switch your thermostat to “auto,” “on,” and a few degrees higher or lower to see if that will start it working. The problem may be the connection between the air handler and the thermostat if it does.

If you suspect the motor is having trouble, turn it off at your fuse box. Remove the air handler’s cover and dust inside with canned air and a soft cloth

Air handler is short cycling

Check out our short cycling guide to fix this problem. You’ll likely have to clean out your system or repair your flame sensor. 

Air handler is leaking

If you feel air flowing out of the joints around your air handler, fix them immediately. This means treated air from your HVAC system isn’t making it into your home, causing your equipment to work harder than necessary (and raising your utility bills in the process.)

You can DIY fix air leaks with aluminum tape and duct sealant

Air handler repair help

HVAC.com has pages to help troubleshoot specific Goodman, Rheem, and Lennox air handler units. 

If our tips don’t do the trick and your air handler isn’t working, call an HVAC contractor for help.

Schedule an appointment for air handler repair with one of our trusted local pros.

How much does an HVAC air handler cost?

According to the 2023 National Plumbing & HVAC Estimator, installing a new air handler costs between $3,662.90 and $25,820. HomeAdvisor suggests most homeowners pay far less than that at $2,450.

An HVAC air handler’s price depends on its capacity, features, and blower motor style.

How long does an HVAC air handler last?

Air handlers have a useful life of about 10-15 years.

Call us if your air handler keeps breaking down, and you suspect it’s time to replace it. We’ll match you with a licensed local HVAC dealer who can help you find the best new air handler for your home.

Book an appointment with one of our top-rated HVAC pros now.

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What is a plenum? HVAC terms explained

At HVAC.com, our writers create solutions that put you in control of your HVAC system. Our product reviews and recommendations are researched and backed by real buyers and industry experts, not dictated by our partners.

furnace and plenum

An HVAC plenum box is a piece of ductwork attached to the air handler. The plenum moves air through the house and your HVAC system.

In your home, the HVAC plenum helps reduce humidity and improve airflow. You likely have two plenum boxes, one on the supply side and one on the return side of your ductwork.

This article will answer the question, “What is a plenum?”. In addition to explaining its function in your HVAC system, we’ll provide tips on plenum repair and things to consider when purchasing a new plenum.

Looking for HVAC repair? Schedule an appointment with a local expert.

What is an HVAC plenum?

A plenum is a box made of sheet metal. It connects your HVAC system’s air handler to your ductwork. 

Your HVAC system creates cool or warm air depending on the season. That air goes from your furnace or air conditioner to the air handler. 

On the supply side of the air handler, the plenum takes the newly warmed or cooled air and leads it into your ductwork. This is how the air from your HVAC system is distributed throughout your home.

On the return side of the air handler, the plenum takes air from inside your home and sends it to your air conditioner or furnace to be heated or cooled.

What’s the difference between an air duct and a plenum?

Plenums can be considered part of your ductwork. They serve as the piece that connects your ductwork to your central HVAC system.

Plenums are usually box-shaped and made of sheet metal. Residential air ducts are sometimes also box-shaped and made of sheet metal.

Some homes have cylindrical air ducts made of galvanized steel, aluminum, or wire coil covered in durable plastic. No matter the type of air ducts you have, the plenum is usually always a sheet metal box.

Your air ducts are the vehicle that distributes air from your HVAC system throughout your home. Your plenums are the pieces that join your HVAC equipment and your ductwork, allowing circulation between the two.

Do you need a plenum?

A plenum is a necessary component if you have a central heating and cooling system. In fact, you need two for your system to work correctly and circulate air within your home.

Common HVAC plenum issues

While a broken plenum isn’t a frequent cause of HVAC problems, there are occasions when plenums may malfunction and require repair.

Leaky plenum

Sometimes, your plenums may leak air. This can cause your HVAC equipment to work overtime, as the heated or cooled air never makes it into your home.

If your system cannot achieve the temperature you’ve set on your thermostat, examine your system for a plenum leak. Simply locate your air handler and check to see if you feel air flowing out of the plenums. Energy.gov has good tips on detecting home air leaks

If you find an air leak, the repair is DIYable. Use silicone caulk and aluminum tape to seal the plenum at its joints. 

Dirty plenum

Over time, your plenums may experience a build-up of dust or dirt. This may cause them to operate inefficiently, diminishing airflow in your home.

To keep your plenums clean, change your air filters every three months. Clean your air ducts regularly. 

Though DIY duct cleaning is important and useful, it won’t reach your plenums. We recommend supplementing your DIY cleans with professional air duct cleaning every 3-5 years.

Poorly sized plenum

An incorrectly sized plenum will negatively impact your whole HVAC system. If the plenum is too small, it will inhibit airflow. If it’s too big, it may cause your system to work harder than necessary, increasing your utility bills.

Contact a licensed HVAC technician if you suspect one of your plenums is the wrong size. They’ll be able to test it and suggest an appropriate replacement.

Since your plenums are such a vital piece of your home comfort equipment, we don’t recommend attempting repairs on your own – always seek the help of a professional.

Incorrectly installed plenum

If your plenums weren’t installed properly, you may be experiencing air circulation issues and a frequently malfunctioning HVAC system. The installer might have connected the plenum inefficiently, cut duct holes poorly, or made attachments at awkward angles that halt airflow.

If you think this is the case with your plenums, consult with an HVAC professional. They’ll be able to identify the exact issues and remedy them, improving the overall performance of your heating and cooling equipment.

Schedule plenum repair.

HVAC plenum repair or replacement

We don’t recommend attempting a plenum repair or replacement on your own. This piece should be specially fit to your HVAC system and installed securely by an expert.

When hiring an HVAC contractor, you can expect to pay $100-200 for a new plenum, assuming your system requires one of standard size and material. Pros typically charge $50-150 per hour. This job should take a few hours at most.

Purchasing a new plenum

We don’t recommend buying your plenum from sites like Amazon or a home improvement store before installation. Let your HVAC contractor take care of securing the materials for you.

Most plenums are made of sheet metal and can be custom-sized by your technician to fit your space and HVAC system perfectly. They’ll likely need to cut holes to fit and connect your ductwork.

Brand names don’t matter when it comes to plenums. They generally don’t have special features or any differentiating bells and whistles.

HVAC plenums: the bottom line

Plenums ensure air cycles through your home and your heating and cooling equipment. One plenum is as good as the next as long as it’s effectively connecting your HVAC system and ductwork.

Contact one of our top-rated local HVAC professionals if you suspect your plenum needs cleaning, repair, or replacement.

Let us find the best HVAC contractor for your job.

This post appeared first on HVAC.com

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