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Do You Want to Go Ductless?


This is a question that anyone in the Miami area may want to ask themselves at least once. Whether you have a home with ductwork or not, you can always consider the installation of a ductless system. You can even add a ductless system to assist a ducted system if your home has imbalanced cooling!

But let’s back up. If you haven’t considered opting into a ductless AC system in your home before now, you might now know what the benefits of this kind of system are. So let’s start there so you can make an informed decision about whether or not this system is right for your home.

How Does A Ductless System Work?

Ductless HVAC systems in Miami can be a great addition to any home. These systems are set up to provide great comfort throughout your house through the use of a combination of one outdoor unit that is connected to a number of air handlers. These components are connected by conduits that handle the flow of refrigerant and disposal of condensation.

With this set-up, a ductless system can be, well, ductless! This makes them helpful for older homes or smaller homes that don’t have the ability to handle ductwork. It can also make them a great addition to homes with ductwork but that is a topic we will address below.

The Main Perks of Going Ductless

So why install a ductless system in your home? It is because these systems can provide you with some incredible benefits which include:

  1. The ability to customize your comfort: The air handlers that make up a ductless unit are going to be able to be run individually or in tandem. If you want uniform temperatures throughout the home or you want to cool one part of the home, you can.
  2. Great energy efficiency: Ductless systems are going to help you save on your energy usage too. They need less energy to get the job done, especially if you use one air handler at a time.
  3. Quiet operation and saved space: Ductless systems have a more compact setup than most of their ducted counterparts. This means they take up far less space around your home and they tend to produce fewer decibels of noise during operation.
  4. No need for ducts: It’s in the name! Ductless HVAC units don’t need ductwork to get the job done. That makes them ideal for small homes, like a studio, or older homes that cannot use ductwork. Ditch the window unit and get quality comfort instead.

Can You Combine a Ductless and a Ducted System?

A bit earlier we mentioned that, even if you have a ducted system you plan to keep, you can choose to add a ductless air handler to your home. This is true! There are homes around the country that struggle with uneven cooling. Maybe it is the floor plan of your home that is problematic or perhaps you have a new addition to your home that you’d just rather not outfit with ductwork. These are instances when adding a ductless unit can be a great decision!

Ready to add a ductless HVAC unit to your home? Contact Air On Demand to schedule an appointment.

The post Do You Want to Go Ductless? first appeared on Air On Demand.

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5 Reasons to Get a New HVAC System When You Renovate

If you’re about to undertake a major renovation project in your building, you’re probably both excited and anxious at the same time. On one hand, the new space will make life easier and enhance your business. On the other hand, there are so many details to consider that you may be feeling overwhelmed. Case in … Continued

The post 5 Reasons to Get a New HVAC System When You Renovate appeared first on Arista.

How to Caulk a Shower in 6 Easy Steps

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Want an easy way to bring new life to your bathroom? One of the easiest ways to add a little bit of shine is by recaulking your shower.

All you need to do for this simple project is to strip, remove, and replace the caulk in your shower. Over time, mold and dirt build up on and around the caulking, leaving a dull, worn look.

In six simple steps, we’ll show you how to caulk a shower! Here are the tools and supplies you will need to get your bathroom repair project underway:

  • Painter’s tape (often blue)
  • Mold cleanser and other cleaning supplies
  • Silicone/latex bathroom caulk
  • A caulking gun
  • A utility knife or flexible scraping blade with oscillating tool

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Step 1: Purchase Caulk

Silicone or latex caulk is required to properly update your shower. If you can find a product that contains both, that would be ideal. The combination gives you flexibility and ideal waterproofing.

If you can only find caulk with latex or silicone, either is fine. Before you make your purchase, however, check the label to ensure it specifically states it is for use in bathrooms or kitchens.

Step 2: Out with the Old

It’s time to start with a clean slate! Removing the old caulk properly and thoroughly is the first step to recaulking your shower.

This is probably the one step that will be the most time consuming, aside from applying the new caulk, but just take your time to do everything properly.

Using your utility knife, cut through the current caulk. Scrape the entire shower area. Sometimes you will encounter some stubborn spots. For these, you can take a razor blade to remove the caulking until it is gone. Be careful not to scrape too hard since it can damage the tile surface.

Step 3: Rid the Area of All Mold

Now it’s time to clean and scrub the shower! Any surface needs to be squeaky clean before applying a new caulk.

For the best results, take a mold-killing solution and apply it to the entire area. Let it penetrate the surface for a few minutes – remember that the mold has probably been there a long time.

Next, scrub until all the mold and dirt are removed. Finally, rinse thoroughly with water and let the shower area dry completely. Do not try to put caulk on a wet or damp surface.

Step 4: Apply the Painter’s Tape

Next, you need to line the shower with painter’s tape to protect the gaps. This tape also provides an even outline and guide of where you will be applying the new caulk.
Press the tape down firmly as you line the shower. And don’t worry, this tape is made to be removed easily and lifts without an adhesive, so you can press down generously to ensure it sticks.

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When lining the area with tape, begin the tape at the largest gap between the wall and the shower and continue until you’ve created an outline.

Step 5: Applying the Caulk

Now that the prep work is complete (good job!) and your surface is ready to receive the new caulk, all it takes is a bit of patience as you work your way around the shower.

Place the caulking gun at the largest gap in the shower. Next, press slowly while holding the caulking gun at a 90-degree angle. Let a very small bead of the caulk be released from the gun ahead of its point.

Continue this process and glide the caulking gun along the surface of the shower using the same gentle pressure. Repeat this process along the entire surface until complete.

Step 6: Wipe the Area and Smooth the Caulk

Now that you have the caulk in place, it’s time to smooth it out. Just use a wet finger to wipe along the caulk line. This will even out any bumps. Now, just let everything sit for 24 hours.
Now comes the fun part! Gently peel the tape and remove it from the shower.

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Now it’s time to admire your handiwork.

Your Sparkling Shower Awaits

Lastly, you will need to allow the area to dry and set for a full 24 hours. This is imperative, as should the area get wet and is not fully dried, you risk damaging the new caulking and all of your hard work!

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Have any other questions about bathroom pluming or maintenance, schedule an appointment with the experts at Service Champions today!

Children and HVAC, How to Have Both Without Losing Your Mind

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Keeping your house safe should always be a priority, however, this takes new importance when you have kids in the home. Your HVAC system is one of many appliances that can pose a risk to children.

It just takes a few simple steps to protect your children and HVAC system. Here are some of our favorite ways to have rambunctious children and a working air system while maintaining your peace.

Invest in Vent Covers

The vents in your home are not only part of your HVAC system, but to a child they look like a fun place to stick fingers and toys. To avoid any potential injuries from curious poking or playing, install vent covers to keep them out.

To install a vent cover, follow these steps or contact an HVAC repair professional to assist with the job.

  1. Lift the back of the vent to the ceiling and cover the open duct.
  2. Grab your drill and make a hole in each corner of the ceiling for the screws to attach the vent cover.
  3. Align the vent cover over the opening and drive the screws in.

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Once covered and secure, you have created a solid barrier to keep children from playing in the vent. Double check that the vent can withstand some light pulling and prodding.

Install a Gate Around the Condenser

The outdoor unit of your AC unit is called the condenser. This large (usually dark gray or green) box can pose a hazard for children if they climb on it or stick fingers into it. In addition, kids can put toys into the condenser or damage it in other ways. Installing a gate or small fence around the condenser is a surefire way to keep out any children.

When you install the gate, always leave a space two or three feet of space on each side and a minimum of five feet from the top. Creating this safe space is a great way to ensure the area does not turn into a danger zone.

Keep the Thermostat Out of Reach

Thermostat buttons are enticing to little fingers, despite this they shouldn’t be touched! Children like to play with buttons, which can make your heating bills go way up. To avoid this, place your thermostat high up and out of reach of children.

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A thermostat lock also keeps little ones from changing the temperature and possibly damaging your HVAC system from unnecessary and contact changes in the settings. Keep things safe and in working order with an easy-to-find thermostat lock, which can be found at any hardware or home improvement store.

Regularly Check and Change the Air Filter

The air filter in your furnace has a few very important jobs. First, it helps trap dust and other debris that could settle in your HVAC system. And second it stops dust, dander, and other indoor air contaminants from making it into your home.

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Over time, your filter can accumulate dirt, dust, and debris, which can impact your system’s efficiency, and even cause a fire. Your family’s health and safety will benefit from you checking and replacing your air filters on a regular basis.

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This check-up is part of a recommended and regular HVAC maintenance. It is recommended to call an HVAC professional at least once a year to assess your system and make sure it’s operating efficiently and safely.

Cover any Exposed Radiators

Radiators may be a source of heat or air, but to your little ones, they can appear as the world’s most exciting jungle gym! Kill the curiosity before it ends in injury by placing a children’s gate around the radiator to protect the space. You can find a gate at any home improvement or family planning store.

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Schedule Routine Maintenance

The best thing you can do for your furnace, and the entire HVAC system, is to schedule routine maintenance.

We recommend two visits per year. Once in the spring before it’s time to turn on the AC and once in the fall when temperatures start to dip.

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You can catch minor issues early and prevent a possibly larger repair in the future and ensure your system is running as safely and efficiently as possible.

Schedule an appointment online or call your local HVAC company to schedule a tune-up.

Why Is My Furnace Making A Squealing, Clicking, Rattling Noise

Do you ever wake up and think you’ve heard a bump in the night? A burglar or someone lurking around the house is potentially one of the biggest nightmares ever. However, we’re here to tell you that noise you heard, it’s probably from your furnace.

Throughout the lifespan of your central air system, your furnace can produce an array of mysterious noises that can cause concern or bother. It’s best not to tune-out these sounds. Specific noises can detail underlying problems within the furnace.

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Identifying the cause can help you and your preferred HVAC technician to restore the health, performance quality and safety of your home furnace system.

Furnace Making a Squealing Noise

When your furnace makes a squealing or squeaking noise, it is generally a sign that the bearings of the blower motor or the inducer motor are wearing out.

Alternatively, when the pieces of the blower motor become misaligned, a loud squealing or squeaking noise results. This is when the blower motor wheel and blower housing scrape against each other. Specifically, it is the friction between these two pieces that generates noise.

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Another reason your furnace may be squealing like a pig is because the blower belt is frayed. The same squealing noise can come from a loose or frayed belt in your car’s engine.

Furnace Making a Clicking Noise

There are a number of reasons your furnace could be making a clicking noise. Though they range in seriousness, it’s always important to have someone out to check the noise as soon as possible.

One of the most common reasons your furnace could make a clicking noise is because something is wrong with the ignition system. Sometimes there can be a bad mixture of gas and air that doesn’t allow the system to light up. The clicking could be attributed to the furnace trying to unsuccessfully light a flame.

Also, inside of the furnace is a control board that contains several switches. These switches flip on and off throughout each one of the furnace’s cycles. Sometimes the flipping of these powerful switches creates a noise that sounds like a “clicking” within the furnace.

Loose ball bearings could make a clicking noise in your furnace. But the same could be said when the blower motor or inducer motor becomes jilted and positions itself in such a way that it continually hits or touches another part that it shouldn’t.

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Whether these motors were thrown into misalignment by an external force or simply improperly installed, the attention of your HVAC technician can restore the correct alignment and eliminate the source of the noise.

Furnace Making a Rattling Noise

In order for blower motors to work efficiently and properly, they need to always be in balance. To ensure this alignment, blower motor wheels typically have balancing weights or clips attached to them.

When these weights are thrown, the wheels can make a rattling noise. Dirt and other debris under the wheels can also throw the blower motor out of alignment.

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Other explanations for a rattling furnace can be loose screws or stray scrap metal bouncing around in your burner, fan, or any other part of the furnace.

If you only hear the rattling while the furnace is on and producing air, the sound could be coming from your ductwork. Over time and with use ducts can come loose and need to be reattached.

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Abnormal noises of any kind should be deferred to the attention of your preferred HVAC contractor. Many times, noise-related problems are connected to the blower motor, which, if endangered, can cause severe damage to the furnace and destroy its internal parts.

Service Champions’ Perfect Way to Furnace Maintenance

They pass drug tests and background checks. Before your scheduled appointment, we send an e-mail containing the photo IDs of your technicians, so you know exactly who to expect.

With each visit, we bring exceptional customer care and expert technical service.

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To learn more about Service Champions’ approach to furnace maintenance or other air care methods, contact one of our friendly representatives in the call center or book an appointment online at your convenience.

Understanding Air Conditioning Energy Efficiency Ratings

If you’re considering installing a new air conditioning system, you’ve probably run across many rating acronyms on the sales literature. Those acronyms are all about the energy efficiency of the air conditioner, and they can help you compare the efficiency of various models. Those ratings are extremely important, since as much as 50% of the … Continued

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Why your heater smells like it’s burning

At, our writers create solutions that put you in control of your HVAC system. Our product reviews and recommendations are researched and backed by real buyers and industry experts, not dictated by our partners.

When heaters get revved up for the cold season, they can let out some unusual odors. If your heater smells like burning, it’s likely not a reason to panic. However, some red flags could point to a bigger issue with your heating system. This article will walk you through the factors that play into that burning smell and when to call a pro. 

heater smells like burning

What’s causing the heater burning smell?

There could be a number of culprits behind a burning smell. Many of these factors, like dust buildup, have a simple remedy. On the other hand, certain scents could clue you into a larger problem with your system.

Dust on the furnace

Dust burnoff is the most likely reason your furnace smells like burning. Thankfully, it’s perfectly normal.

When your heater sits unused, it collects dust. Most Americans cool their homes in the warmer months, making spring and summer prime time for dust to settle on heaters.

As your heater starts to warm up, so does the dust in and around the system. The burning dust gives off the smoky scent that you may notice when you first turn on your heater this winter.

You should notice the burning smell start to fade within a few hours. If the stench lingers, check your air filters and the area around your heater for any foreign objects.

While the burning dust scent is normal, it’s not exactly pleasant. Home comfort tools like air purifiers may help clear the smoky odor.

Debris trapped in heating system

Household items can easily fall through your vents. When foreign objects get trapped in your ductwork, they can give off a burning plastic or rubber scent.

Debris can also get into the furnace itself. Foreign objects can make the inner components dirty, leading to quicker burnout for your heater.

If your heater smells like burning plastic, turn it off right away. Next, try to see if the smell is coming from one specific vent.

If the odor is concentrated to one vent, you probably have a foreign object in your heating system. If the smell is coming from your furnace itself, you could have an overheated motor or faulty wiring. We suggest calling an HVAC technician to figure out the specific issue. 

Dirty furnace filters or air vents

A clogged filter can cause a domino effect of issues for your heater. The blower motor, a component that sends hot air through the vents, relies on a clean filter to work properly.

The blower motor works harder to push more air through the system when the air filter is dirty. This overworking can lead to overheating, which causes a burning stench. 

Plus, dirty filters can collect mold. If your home fills with a mold or mildew odor when the heat kicks on, a clogged filter may be the culprit.

The solution? Be sure to replace your filters as often as the manufacturer suggests.

It’s also best to regularly dust the vents throughout the cold season and have ductwork professionally cleaned every three to five years. If you replace the filters and the smoky or moldy scent persists, call your local HVAC technician. 

Damaged electrical wiring

Faulty wiring can create some pungent odors like gunpowder, rubber, and plastic. If you smell any of those scents, turn your heater off right away.

Most furnaces have built-in safety measures that prevent the machine from overheating. Still, these features can sometimes malfunction.

A burning, wiry scent indicates that a component of your heater isn’t working properly. Handling faulty electrical wiring is dangerous, so leave this job to the professionals. 

When you may need a furnace repair

When your heater revs back up for the winter, a mild burning scent is normal. Still, pungent or long-lasting smells indicate a more serious problem with your furnace. 

If you smell any of the odors described below, immediately shut off your heater and call an HVAC professional.

Suspicious smells

  • Gunpowder: This could indicate faulty electrical wiring or an overheated motor.
  • Rotten eggs or sulfur: If your home starts smelling like either of these, get out quickly and call your gas company. These scents are usually linked to natural gas leaks.
  • Oil: If you have an oil furnace, it may be leaking.
  • Plastic: There could be a burning piece of equipment, debris, or a foreign object in your ductwork.
  • Burning dust or smoke: This scent shouldn’t persist longer than a few hours after first turning on your heater for the season. If it does, call a professional to rule out any bigger issues.
  • Mold or mildew: If you’ve replaced your filters and the scent doesn’t go away after a few hours, call a professional. Mold inhalation is a major health concern.
  • Electrical wiring or metallic: Overheated equipment is most likely causing a metallic or electric odor.
  • Chemical odors: Your heat exchanger, the component that warms up the air in a furnace, may be broken.

Can you avoid a furnace burning smell? 

While you can’t always prevent the smoky smell of dust burnoff, our tips below will help lower your chance of a burning smell from your heater.

Try an air purifier

Air purifiers are devices that kill airborne germs like bacteria, viruses, and mold. If your heater smells like burning, an air purifier can also kill the bacteria that causes odors.

Make sure to look for an air purifier with true HEPA filters. These special filters can kill the smallest and most pesky germs, like smoke odors.

With an air purifier, you can clear out that dusty scent within hours. Still, an air purifier isn’t a substitute for calling an HVAC technician if you smell anything suspicious. 

Get an inspection 

A few weeks before you plan to turn on your furnace, call an HVAC technician. They’ll inspect your heater, and they can remove any dirt or debris trapped in the system. 

Request that your HVAC technician size your system for the proper filter. This is especially important if you plan to use a higher MERV rating. The higher the quality of the filter, the less air it allows to move. Your technician can make adjustments to the HVAC system to allow air to move effectively through the filter.

Keep your filters fresh

Generally, you should change one or two-inch-thick filters every one to three months. Three or four-inch thick filters should be changed every six months. 

Plus, replacing or cleaning your filters regularly will keep your furnace running smoothly. Most are disposable and need to be changed every 60 days. A select few are either hand- or machine-washable, so you can spruce them up between filter replacements. 

Dust and debris buildup are common sources of a burning smell from your heater. Keep your filters clean to support optimal performance from your furnace. 

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What are the most common air filter sizes?

At, our writers create solutions that put you in control of your HVAC system. Our product reviews and recommendations are researched and backed by real buyers and industry experts, not dictated by our partners.

Routine filter swaps are your key to a happy HVAC system. Still, understanding the most common air filter size can be a head-scratcher if you’re unsure what the numbers mean. 

When it comes to changing out your air filter, size matters. Our guide helps you get an accurate measurement and find the perfect fit for your unit.

How does filter size work?

Filters are labeled with three-part dimensions. The first number is its length, the second is its width, and the third is its depth or thickness.

For example, a filter labeled 10” X 12” X 1” is 10 inches long, 12 inches wide, and one inch thick. Here’s a look at some common filter dimensions.

  • 10 X 20 X 1’’
  • 14 X 20 X 1’’
  • 16 X 24 X 1’’
  • 18 X 30 X 1”

A filter’s advertised size is slightly bigger than its exact measurements. If you know how these two sizes relate, you’ll always get the right filter.

Stop Reading, Start Talking

Signs your filter is the wrong size

The wrong size HVAC air filter can compromise your whole system. A filter that’s too small leaves gaps for air and germs to escape. A filter that’s too big can damage the area, causing a safety hazard.

Here are some clues that you need a filter swap. If you’re still unsure, call an HVAC professional to confirm. 

  • If your filter makes rattling noises inside your system, it could be too small.
  • If you notice an uptick in dust around your home, your filter may be too small. 
  • If you have to jam or force your filter into the slot, it’s too big. 
  • If your filter has bent corners when you take it out, it’s too big.

Filter nominal vs. actual size 

Manufacturers label filters with an estimate of their actual size. This estimate is called the nominal size. If you know your filter’s nominal size, it will be a universal fit across any brand. 

See how nominal and actual sizing relate.

Actual size for filters

The actual size is an air filter’s exact size. If you measure your filter with a ruler, you’ll get the actual size.

An air filter’s actual size is usually ¼ to ½  inch less than its nominal size. To convert from actual to nominal size, measure your filter and round each dimension up to the nearest inch. 

Nominal size

Nominal size is a rounded estimate of an air filter’s actual size. You’ll likely see the nominal size printed on the side of your filter.

Filter manufacturers use nominal sizing for industry consistency. Actual filter sizes vary by brand, which creates shopper confusion. Nominal sizing makes comparing similar products easier.

Once you find your filter’s nominal size, you can shop any brand with confidence. No matter where you are in your filter shopping journey, we’ve got you covered.

Check your filter frame for nominal size

If your filter is labeled, this is a breeze. Turn your thermostat off and remove your air filter.

Check the label, which should be on the side of your filter. The listed dimensions are your filter’s nominal size. If the filter fits properly, order a filter with the same nominal size from any manufacturer.

If your current filter isn’t labeled, take manual measurements. Measure your filter with the steps below. 

Measure your filter

Use a flat ruler or tape measurer to complete the measurements. Measure your air filter’s length, height, and thickness (depth) in inches.

Starting with the length, check each individual measurement. Round up to the nearest inch. You can shop any brand that sells your filter’s nominal size, knowing it’s a fit. 

Measure the filter slot

As a last-resort way to find the correct air filter size, measure the air intake parameters. This is the most labor-intensive option, and it leaves the most room for error. Opt for this method only if you’re certain that your current filter is the wrong fit. 

Find the slot that holds your air filter. It’s usually located in the blower compartment or return duct.

Measure the length, width, and depth of the space’s innermost edge. If you use this method, you’ll have to read the fine print for each filter’s actual size when you go shopping.

Your filter’s actual height and width should measure ⅛ to ⅝ inches less than the slot. If it’s the exact same size or bigger, it won’t fit properly.

If your filter sits in a vent rather than sliding into a slot, there’s less wiggle room. Your filter’s actual height and width should be about ⅛ inch shorter than its space.

We want to re-emphasize that nominal sizing won’t be helpful with this method. Every brand makes filters with slightly different actual sizes, so check each filter’s exact measurements before buying.

Best filter thickness

Most HVAC systems can only fit 1”-thick filters. If yours can accommodate a bigger one, opt for the thickest filter that comfortably fits and has been recommended by your HVAC professional. 

Thicker filters can handle more buildup, so you don’t have to replace them as often. Plus, a thick filter traps more particles than a thin filter. But, be cautious. A filter that is too thick can hinder airflow, creating operational problems for the equipment.

Ultimately, a comfortable fit is far more important than filter thickness. Jamming in an oversized filter where it doesn’t belong can damage your HVAC system and won’t clean your air properly.

Best air filter size

Finding the right size filter is an easier process than it may seem. Listen and look for cues your current filter may be under or oversized.

If the filter fits snuggly, use the numbers on the side to choose a replacement every 60 days, or as recommended by the manufacturer. If the filter size isn’t printed on the side, take manual measurements. Round up to the closest inch to create the nominal filter size, which is the measurement you’ll use when purchasing a filter.

Changing the HVAC filter is just one part of the routine maintenance you should perform on your system. Schedule a seasonal inspection twice yearly to extend the life of your HVAC and increase energy efficiency.

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Heat pump vs. gas furnace: 8 major myths

At, our writers create solutions that put you in control of your HVAC system. Our product reviews and recommendations are researched and backed by real buyers and industry experts, not dictated by our partners.

Heat pumps and gas furnaces are two popular options for heating a home. Each system comes with pros and cons, but they work in very different ways. Check out these eight myths about heat pumps vs. gas furnaces to gather the facts so you can decide which heating system is the best option for you.

Myths of a heat pump vs. gas furnace

Our goal is to deliver the facts on whether you should install a heat pump vs. gas furnace. Here are the top eight myths, and the truth behind them, of installing a heat pump vs. gas furnace so you can make the best investment for your home.

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3alexd / Getty Images

Myth #1 – A gas furnace is always the best way to heat a home

A gas furnace is not always the best way to heat a home. If you do not have gas lines leading to your home, then a gas furnace cannot be installed. They can also produce extremely hot heat, which means that the temperature in your home can quickly reach the setting on your thermostat. This can leave cold spots around your home and contribute to dry skin.

Gas furnaces may provide overpowering heat when the temperatures outside are between 40 and 60 degrees. A gas furnace also produces CO, which can be a threat if the unite isn’t installed properly and inspected annually.

Heat pumps can actually be a better choice in certain regions, like the south, where winters are milder. In areas that don’t experience temperatures below freezing, a heat pump consumes less energy and can be more efficient than a furnace.

Myth #2 – A heat pump is the same as an air conditioner

An air conditioner’s refrigeration system absorbs heat from inside the home to the refrigerant, which carries the absorbed heat to the outside through the outdoor unit. A heat pump works the same way as an air conditioner in cooling mode, but the two differ when heating.

The heat pump’s refrigeration system absorbs heat from outside the home and delivers the absorbed heat through your indoor coil. This process creates an energy-efficient way to keep your home warm in mild temperatures.

Myth #3 – Heat pumps don’t heat your home as well as gas furnaces

A heat pump is an effective way to heat homes in climates that experience mild winter temperatures, like the Southeast. Heat pumps aren’t designed to warm a home when temperatures fall below freezing. For this reason, homes in the Northeast, and other cold climates, should rely on gas furnace heat when deciding between the two.

Myth #4 – Gas furnaces are always more efficient than heat pumps

Natural gas is cheaper than electricity in most regions, which makes a furnace more cost-effective than an electric heat pump in areas that experience freezing temperatures. Gas furnaces are not always more efficient than heat pumps, however.

For states that experience cooler temperatures (40-60 degrees) but not extreme cold (below 40 degrees), a heat pump can be more efficient and cost-effective.

Not an HVAC expert? No problem!

Myth #5 – A gas furnace is cheaper than a heat pump

The upfront cost for installing a heat pump is usually cheaper than the cost to install a furnace. However, the monthly energy bill is where you’ll see the real savings. It’s less expensive to heat a home with natural gas in a colder region, but you’ll want to rely on a heat pump in a warmer region. Also, if you don’t have natural gas lines running to your home, installation can be extremely expensive.

Myth #6 – There is only one type of heat pump

There are three types of heat pumps: air-to-air, ductless mini-split, and geothermal. The air-to-air heat pump is the most common type of heat pump and works by moving the heat outside your home through the air handler unit inside your home and across the indoor coil.

A ductless, mini-split heat pump is similar to a window air conditioner. It is a smaller air-source unit with an outdoor compressor/condenser and an indoor air-handling unit.

Lastly, a geothermal heat pump uses the warmth stored in the earth (which is roughly 50 to 60 degrees) to heat your home. It uses this warmth to heat the air before it blows it into your home. The best heat pump for you will depend on your type of home and your heating needs.

Myth #7 – Carbon monoxide is a risk with both gas furnaces and heat pumps

Gas furnaces do produce carbon monoxide, which can be harmful if leaked into your home. As long as the gas furnace is installed correctly and regularly inspected, the furnace is safe. Heat pumps, however,do not use combustion to create heat as gas furnaces do, so they do not create CO. Heat pumps do need to be inspected seasonally for optimal performance.

Myth #8 – Gas furnaces produce more heat

Technically, gas furnaces produce more heat than heat pumps. Extremely hot air is not always a good thing, though. The extremely hot air that gas furnaces produce isn’t necessary in regions that have mild winter temperatures. Utilizing a system that produces higher temperatures than you need wastes energy and money.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does a heat pump cost more than a gas furnace?

Not necessarily. If you live in a region where electricity is cheaper than gas, then a heat pump can be a more cost-effective and efficient way to heat your home.

How do I know if I have a heat pump vs. gas furnace?

The easiest way to determine if you have a heat pump is to set the thermostat to heat. Go to the unit outside of your home. If the unit is running while the heat is running inside, then you have a heat pump. 

Why choose a heat pump over a gas furnace?

Most of the reasons you would choose a heat pump vs. gas furnace come down to where you live. If you live in the South, where winter temperatures may only reach 40 to 60 degrees, then a heat pump is the best fit for your home. If you live in an area where electricity costs less than gas, then a heat pump is also the better option.

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Do You Have a Clogged Condensate Drain?


Your air conditioner needs to release water through the condensate line to function correctly. However, with time, dirt, dust, and other airborne particles get stuck in the condensate line as they are carried along with the airborne moisture in the home. A clogged condensate drain may not seem too problematic. However, if you leave it untreated for long, your HVAC malfunctions lead to more significant air conditioning problems.

Therefore, you must learn the common signs for instantly spotting a clogged condensate drain. This way you will know when to contact us for HVAC system repair in Miami to clean your condensate drain.

5 Signs of a Clogged Condensate Drain

If you observe any of these signs from your HVAC system, it means your condensate drain is blocked.

1.     Pooling Water

Standard HVAC systems in Miami collect moisture from the room only to let it drip from the condensate pan and out the condensate line. But if the drain is blocked, the shallow pan can’t hold all the liquid resulting in unusual leaks. These leaks pool water on your floor and cause damage to your home.

2.     Automatic Shutdown

Recent HVAC models come with a drip pan sensor which automatically shuts down the HVAC system if the condensate pan is overflowing. That is why, if your air conditioning shuts off without any reason, it is best to get a professional to check your condensate drain and other parts of your AC immediately.

3.     Mold Growth

The water leaking from your HVAC seeps inside the walls and floorboards, creating a friendly environment for mold and bacteria. Both of these are your house’s enemies as they rot the woods and make your home unsafe. When mold starts to grow, you will notice a stale and pungent odor coming from the spot your HVAC system is fixed.

4.     Frozen Cooling Lines

If your condensate drain line clogs, it may increase the chances of your refrigerant lines freezing. If a layer of ice is forming on your system, make sure to call an HVAC repair company to keep your system running smoothly.

5.     Damp Walls

Another sign of blocked condensate drain is dampness or wetness in walls near the HVAC system. When water leaks from the air conditioning system, it goes straight into the walls. Due to excessive moisture, your walls appear damp to the touch and discolored. As a result, you can see the mold growing beside your HVAC system.

If you observe any of these signs, you need to get your condensate drain fixed. If you ignore this situation, it will spread and damage your walls and ceilings.

Contact the Professionals For Your HVAC Problems

Having a blocked HVAC condensate drain system is dangerous for you and your home. Leaving it untreated for long can severely damage your home, making it vulnerable to mold and rot. To keep your home safe from these elements, check your system for signs of blockage.

So, don’t wait for an AC issue to ruin your home and comfort. Call Air On Demand today for expert HVAC services!

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